Wednesday, December 10, 2008

Greetings from Bellevue, Washington!

It's true, I'm officially back in the United States! It had been a difficult few days back in Managua, and now I am home in the loving arms of my estadounidense family.

I had an especially hard time saying goodbye to my mamá, and I still don't really know how I feel. The transition back in the life in the United States has been incredibly easy and absurdly difficult in many ways, and I still need some time to adjust to everything.

The Gritería on Sunday night was absolutely insane - at 6PM, the firecrackers started going off everywhere, and everyone started going around to different houses and singing to their altars of the Virgin Mary. The louder we sang, the better the gifts were, so we screamed, and I ending up with about three pounds of sugar, a bag of rice, Nicaraguan candies, orange juice, apple juice, and some tupperware after only three houses. This was by far the best trick-or-treating experience of my 20 years!

On our last night in Managua, we had the closing presentation for our Nicaraguan families, and my mamá and I finally did our dance in our insane costumes. It was slightly embarrassing because I didn't know what I was doing, but it was absolutely worth it to be able to be on stage with her.

And now? It is time to move myself slowly back into my old way of life. For example, I couldn't BELIEVE the price of gas when I was coming home last night...$1.83? I think the last time I saw that price on a gas billboard was when I was 13 years old. It is also really cold, so I am definitely not looking forward to skin-melting-Maine weather in January. But these are the least of my worries...I miss my Nicaraguan family!

Here are some pictures of us from the last night...

With my family. My mamá and I are in the traditional dance costumes that we made, and check out Eduber's sweet shirt that he wore just for the occasion!
with my hermanitos! Eduber and Heyling
My fabulous mama!


Most importantly, I would like to thank all of you for reading my blog and engaging with me during this experience. Your support, encouragement, and thoughts really helped me keep going and I really appreciate all of your interest in my life.

Until next time...¡cuídense y les amo!

Love,
Nicole

Friday, December 5, 2008

¡Dios mío! Only three more days!

¡Buenas a todos y todas! The news of the day: I have finally finished that which I have been dreading ever since I signed up to come on this program - the ISP! Today, we each had to make 20 minute creative presentations in Spanish about our topic... so it ended up being quite a long day. We started at 8:30AM, and only finished at 4:45PM with an hour and a half lunch break. I was super nervous, as usual, but I finished and that is all that matters to me at this point. I can now proudly say that I actually achieved what I once thought was impossible!

On the subject of ISP - last Tuesday, I went to turn in my paper to my advisor, and she told me that the woman we had been visiting at her home had died in the hospital last Friday. It absolutely blew me away - in other parts of the world, people live with HIV for 15 to 20 years, and this woman only had five years because she couldn´t afford treatment. In these situations, I just feel so terrible because I can´t do anything about it, but I want to help so badly. Even more than ever, I know that even though this month is over, my work definitely doesn´t stop here.

In other news, we are now at the Casa San Juan again until Tuesday morning for the Evaluation and Re-entry period. Here we will have our Spanish exit interiews, our final interviews with the academic director, and have a few lectures tomorrow and on Sunday morning about what we should expect as we re-enter the United States. Supposedly, our parents have already received a list of things that shouldn´t surprise them when we get home, like throwing toilet paper in the trash can and refusing to buy anything because it costs too much...so we will see what my family has to say about me upon my return.

Some other exciting events for this coming weekend:
On Sunday, we will be returning to Máximo for la Gritería, a Catholic ceremony that Aynn describes as a mixture between 4th of July for the fireworks, Halloween for the tricks, and Christmas for the presents. That night, everyone will go out in the streets to celebrate the conception of the Virgin Mary, or la Purísima, which is the next day. Basically, it is going to three or so hours of a lot of the locals getting drunk, going to peoples houses and singing loudly/off key in order to get random gifts such as oranges, candies, and toothbrushes. Who wouldn´t be excited for that?

¿Quién causa tanta alegría?
¡La concepción de Maria!
¡MARIA DE NICARAGUA!

On Monday morning, we are going to a beach, and then in the evening we have our closing presentation (when my mamá and I are going to dance!), and suddenly I am on a plane to Miami at 10AM on Tuesday. How did this semester go by so fast?

I am not sure, but this may be my last blog post from Neecoragua...! However, I will hopefully be able do one more once I get home to let you know how it all went this weekend and about my first experiences of reverse culture shock back in the good ol´US of A.

Thanks again to everyone for reading - I really appreciate your interest in what I have been up to over the past few months and for all the comments and emails I have been receiving.

I hope everyone has a great day!

Love,
Nicole

Monday, December 1, 2008

¡Terminé! ¡Terminé!

Greetings folks! A much less stressed and much more exhuberant Nicole here to say hello and tell you all that as of 12 noon yesterday, I HAVE OFFICIALLY FINISHED MY PAPER!

This my friends, is not just 30 pages bound between two pieces of plastic...it is SUCCESS.

It is a wonderful feeling. Earlier this morning, I wrote out my abstracts, so now all I need to prepare is my presentation, which I plan on doing in the breaks between hanging out with my family, making my costume, dancing, and eating ice cream. That´s what I´m talking about.

Here are a few more updates from Managua...

Yesterday, after I finished, I went with my family friends Carolina and Guillermo to their daughter´s graduation from high school.
6th graders in front, 5th years in back

On the way home, we achieved what Guillermito (their son) and I believe to be a new record...10 people in one taxi.

Here is Guillermo looking hilariously squashed in the trunk across from me...note that the trunk door is not actually closed...
Afterwards, I had my first ever Spanish music dance party with actual Spanish speaking people at the graduation party (don´t worry Tom, ours are SO much better). I got a lot of laughs for being the only white girl dancing to Reggaeton with high schoolers, but that is what I live for. On Thursday, I get to do it all over again because I will be going to my little sister´s graduation from 6th grade, for which I am extremely excited.

Other news to report: in addition to my new cockroach friends, the mice have come to my house to hang out. I have only seen one so far, but I swear I hear more of them at night. The reason that this wasn´t a problem before now was because we had a cat named Tufito that did an excellent job at eating them all; however, a couple weeks ago our crazy neighbor poisoned and killed Tufito because he didn´t want his daughter to play with him. Before that, he had also thrown hot oil on Tufito to scare him out of his house. I mean c´mon, does that really merit scorching and killing an animal? Why not just tell your daughter not to play with the cat? This is defintely beyond my scope of comprehension.

Anyway, I am now basically FREE. This Friday after the presentations, we head back to the Casa San Juan for the program evaluation period, and then I come back to the US next Tuesday! It is all going by way too fast.

That´s it for now...I hope everyone had a great Thanksgiving, good luck to all the Batesies that are working hard for the finals that are coming up way too soon, and I can´t wait to hear from you!

Love,
Nicole

Wednesday, November 26, 2008

A few quick updates as I take a break from paper writing...

Hello everyone! Just a quick update as I am about to leave to visit Masaya for the day with Kendall as a well deserved break from my recent Managua life.

I had a long weekend after my visit to León and Chinandega last Wednesday. In León, I had an unnervingly similar experience to that which I had during the "drop-off" on the third day of the program back in August, and I am pleased to inform all of you that I survived...and I was by myself this time! That´s what I´m talking about, Darwin.

Yesterday, Patricia and I went back to the home of the woman with HIV that we visited two weeks ago, but when we arrived, her mother told us that she had been admitted to the hospital a week ago for an opportunistic infection. I didn´t react for a few hours, but last night, the shock hit me and I absolutely broke down. As an estadounidense with so many opportunities granted to me by my situation, I will never again say, "My life isn´t fair." More on this later.

As a result of this nervous breakdown and the impending due date of my ISP research paper, I didn´t sleep last night, and rather wrote out a section of my paper by hand as is done here in Nicaragua when you don´t have a computer. For the last four days, I have been working on this final monster of a Spanish paper, and much to my surprise, I have actually been writing without procrastinating which I am sure many would agree (cough, cough Lila) is not one of my strengths. As of 9AM today, I have officially finished 13 of the 25 pages I am expected to write, which is the longest paper I have ever written in any language. Only 12 more to go!

In other news...COCKROACHES. I think they are breeding in my room, and it is kind of driving me bonkers, and I am pretty sure they would drive you nuts too...here are some of the latest examples.

Right before I left for Granada, the biggest cockroach I have ever seen crawled across my foot, and in the flurry of my panic, it fell on its back and couldn´t turn back over. I watched it do the fetus dance for a few minutes and then finally told my mamá, who boiled a pot of water and poured it on the roach´s belly to kill it. Phew.

A couple weeks ago while trying to go to sleep, I heard a faint scratching noise, and as a result of my paranoia, I turned on the light to inspect my room only to find a cockroach IN the bag where I keep my shampoo and soap. What would I have done if I had found a snake? Don´t even want to think about it.

The other night while speaking with my parents on the phone, a cockroach literally fell on my face (which probably really scared my mom, sorry!), and once I hung up, I found two more crawling across the floor...errgh.

Finally, this morning at 6:30AM, when I opened my door to head for the shower, I saw a cockroach lying on its back, looking pretty darn dead. I started to slide it in the direction of the outdoor patio-like area with my foot, and suddenly it came back to life and scurried under the oven. Great.

I wonder where the next one will appear...there are only so many more places they can hide.

I apologize this was such a short, disheveled and slightly uninformative entry, but it seems that all of my available computer time lately has been dedicated to this paper. In my wildest fantasies, I will finish it by Sunday so that I will have three days to prepare my presentation, finish my traditional costume, learn a folkloric dance, and perhaps write another update for all of you. I´m going for it!

And finally, Happy Thanksgiving to everyone for tomorrow! I will most likely be eating the usual gallo pinto with my mamá and hermanitos for dinner, but know that I am thankful for all of you and I hope you have a great day!

Love,
Nicole

Friday, November 21, 2008

"Never trust a fart."

This wise advice was given to me over the phone last night by my sister´s dear boyfriend, Nathan. Though he said this is advice he had received from his parents about aging, we both agreed this was true in my current situation as well.

Nathan, this post is dedicated to you. It is now time to complete your end of the deal. :)

This post is inspired by the current intestinal problem I am having as a result of eating Nicaraguan fast food with my ISP advisor in Chinandega...so if you already think fast food is nasty, don´t even try to imagine it down here. Anyway, I went to the doctor today, had a lab test done, and hilariously enough, my results are online at the hospital´s website. I mean really, who puts more information than you would ever want to know about your poo on the internet? The Hospital Metropolitano Vivian Pellas does.

I decided that in light of these recent events, this post should just be a list of the absurd conversations I have been having lately, because I have found that in many of the situations here in Nicaragua, you just have to sit back and laugh and the ridiculousness of it all.

1) Meeting people is always great here, especially if you actually meet them and don´t just receive a cat call or get followed by sloppy kissing noises as you walk down the street. However, every time I meet a new person, I have the following conversation, and I literally mean EVERY time, in the exact same way:

Person: What´s your name?
Me: Nicole.
Person: Like Nicole Kidman?
Me: Umm...no, but I guess my last name does start with the same letter.
Person: How old are you?
Me: 20.
Person: Wow, but you are so little! Are you married?
Me: No.
Person: Do you have any kids?
Me: No.
Person: Do you have a boyfriend?
Me: No.
Person: (now sounding worried) Have you ever had a boyfriend?

*The thing that really interests me about this conversation: why does everyone ask if I have kids after I say that I am not married? That is Nicaragua for you.


2) The next happened a few nights ago with my mamá and her friend, Carolina. I showed them my new "Sex Life with Responsibility" bracelet, and said it reminded me of abstinence rings. They had no clue what these were, so this is the conversation that followed:

Me: Well, people vow to be abstinent until marriage, because the Bible says that sex is a form of marriage.
Mamá: But what happens if you marry them and you find out that they are small?
Me: Well...doesn´t love conquer all?
Carolina: Love doesn´t conquer everything.
(a few moments of awkward silence)
Carolina: (something in really fast incoherent Spanish)
Mamá: No you ask her.
(more awkward silence)
Mamá: Nicole, have you had sex before?

*On the bright side (is there a bright side?), at least they are comfortable enough to ask, right?


3) I had just arrived in Chinandega, and I was telling Patricia, my advisor, about the people who had come up to me to ask for money in León because I am white...

Me: It just annoys me because they assume that because I am a gringo, I am obviously rich.
Patricia: Well, I am sure that´s what the boys say about you...rich, like a caramello...

*She is a psychologist at a sexual health organization, so I guess I´m going to have to let that one go...


4) Later that day, at the fast food restaurant where I received my current problem, I had to explain to Patricia why I don´t eat pork, but she didn´t really understand the concept of a Jew. The conversation continued, and somehow we got onto the topic of boys and marriage in my religious tradition:

Patricia: So, could you marry a Nicaraguan?
Me: Well, I don´t think so.
Patricia: So Jews are racists.

*That took a little clearing up, and I still wonder if she believes me.


5) Finally, when I returned from Chinandega, the intense intestinal cramps had already begun. I was sitting in the office, doubled over in pain, when the 19 year old boy-next-door, Luis walked in.

Luis: Gringita, what´s wrong?
Me: My stomach hurts really bad...I think I have a bug.
Luis: (whispering while looking at me with knowing eyes) Are you sure it´s not your period?

*This could have been insanely awkward, but (un)fortunately for me, menstruation will always be a regular topic of conversation.


Thanks for reading everyone, I hope these were as amusing for you as they were for me. I have gotten to the point here where awkwardness just doesn´t exist, so I apologize if any of this was too much for any of you. Just be glad I didn´t give you the website for this morning´s test results...

Love,
Nicole

Tuesday, November 18, 2008

Volcanoes, condoms, and favorite foods...doesn´t get much better than that!

Happy Tuesday everyone! I hope you all had a great weekend, because I know I did!

Here is an update on the latest news from Neecoragua...

On Saturday, Chelsea M. and I made the trek to the island of Ometepe to visit this beautiful girl: Kendall!

Our journey was pretty intense: We got a taxi to the Mercado Huembes at 5AM, then took a two hour bus down to Rivas, a taxi to San Jorge, and finally an hour ferry ride to the island, where we met up with Kendall and took another two hour bus ride to Santo Domingo, arriving at our destination at about 12PM. While it may have taken almost seven hours and consisted of five independent legs, the total cost was approximately $8. Take that, United Airlines.

We spent the next 24 hours relaxing on the island with Kendall, but unfortunately after a fantastic ice cream breakfast, we had to make our way back to the Gua. We arrived home at 5PM, and though we spent a lot of the weekend traveling, it was totally worth it. Here are a few more pictures...

the bananas that escorted us from Ometepe to San Jorge
The Island of Ometepe, on the left is Volcán Concepción, and on the right is Volcán MaderasMe and Chelsea M. on the ferry with Ometepe in the background

Yesterday, I worked all morning then went to Xochiquetzal for another support group meeting. Only one man came, and after he worked with another student, he decided to spend the next hour telling me about himself. My favorite part had to be when he told me this:
"I´m gay, but I love everyone. Everytime I shake someone´s hand, or hug them, or kiss them on the cheek to greet or meet them, I fall in love. I think that you can pass so much love like that, so I love everyone."
Don´t you think that the world would be so much better if everyone had this philosophy?

Today, I worked again in the morning, then went back to Xochiquetzal to meet Patricia so we could go to visit the hospital patients. Unfortunately, due to the marches and violence in the rotundas today in Managua, it was too dangerous to cross town to one of the hospitals, so she sent me home. As some sort of apology gift for making me come all the way to the foundation for nothing, she gave me a red ribbon bracelet that sports the slogan, "Sex Life with Responsibility", as well as tiny condoms with faces. NICE.

Those are the latest fun facts of my life. Tomorrow, I am heading up to León and Chinandega again to interview another organization and hang out at Xochiquetzal.

For now, I think I am going to reward myself for working on endless interview transcriptions with my latest and greatest indulgence...The Office. For those of you who have not been introduced to this masterpiece of modern television, I advise you to try it out; however, proceed with caution because it is highly addictive.

*A few shout outs...that include my food wishes for all of you...
Batesies: Enjoy Harvest Dinner! It is impossible to describe an event like this to a Nicaraguan because the idea that we need two church sized buildings for all the food is unfathomable. Take pictures and stick your heads under the chocolate fountain for me.
Zeta: Breathe, believe, eat some Lindt, and take care of yourself!
Friends abroad: I miss you all! Please let me know how you are doing, as well as describe the best meal you ate in your country today.
Mom and Dad: Give each other BIG hugs because I love you two, and perhaps go for a walk/date to Starbucks for me?
Farty sister, Nathan, and Plush Mister Puddin: Keep doin´what you´re doin´, because you´re doin´ it great. I miss and love you guys so much, and I think you need to eat some monkey bread.
to all others whom I miss (that means you): Life is uncertain, eat dessert first!


Keep writing to me! I love hearing from you.

Love,
Nicole

Thursday, November 13, 2008

Another ISP week down, three more to go!

Hello everyone! Another week of the ISP period has gone by and I am feeling nothing short of swamped. I have been having some really great interviews and visits, but I spend so much time traveling to these meetings and working with Patricia that most all of my real work has to happen when I get home. As of right now, I have about five hours of Spanish interviews to transcribe, plus three large books that Patricia gave me on the structure of support groups to sift through, not to mention that I probably should start writing certain parts of my final paper at some point in the near future. Right now it feels like if I survive this, I just might survive my senior thesis next year. I guess we will have to see!

This week I met with different leaders in the HIV community and attended support groups, but the most impactful encounter I had was on Tuesday during a domestic visit. Patricia and I went to see a woman who had contracted HIV five years ago from her husband. She has six children, and currently lives in her mother´s house with about eleven other people. When we arrived, she was lying on the bed, and one of her daughter´s was helping to massage her arm and shake her joints because she was in so much pain. Her legs were covered in sores from an opportunistic infection, and when she needed to go to the bathroom, one of her daughters had to help her up and lead her slowly down the hall because she couldn´t walk. At one point, we sent one of the daughters to see how much an ointment would cost at the pharmacy down the road, and she came back and reported 40 córdobas. Unfortunately, when the other girl looked in her mother´s wallet, they had nothing. 40 córdobas...that is less than two dollars...how does this happen? Patricia and I each gave her 20 and she went to buy it, but that was only this time because we were there. What happens when she needs something else?

In the United States, people can live for years with HIV, but here in Nicaragua and other poor countries around the world, people deteriorate much faster just because they don´t have the money to buy the resources they need. It has only been five years, and this woman is already so close to death. And what did she do to deserve this? Marry a man who decided to cheat on her with an infected person? It is so difficult to comprehend. I stayed up for hours that night thinking about it, and I still don´t know what to think because it is so unfair. Next week, I will be visiting people with HIV in hospitals, and I am worried that this Tuesday´s visit isn´t the worst I will see over the course of this month.

In other news, the elections are finally over, but then again, they are far from over. The Sandista candidate won here in Managua, and the response was outrageous. My aunt started getting drunk at 5PM and played the same love ballad on repeat for two hours. The fireworks after the results were officially announced lasted until 3AM, and every so often another one goes off like a gunshot in the streets. The Sandinistas have loud caravans driving throughout the city, waving flags, playing music, and screaming to the excitement of the children playing in the streets.

Unfortunately, there have been some other issues too - Eduardo Montealegre, the PLC candidate who lost, was really banking on winning the elections in order to gain political immunity. He had been accused of certain illegal doings during his time as finance minister, and therefore really needed this victory to save his butt. As a result, there has been a surge of protests and violence, including a journalist who was attacked a few days ago and two children who got caught in the action. Today, when I went to the university to find some things I needed for my project, they were checking IDs at the all of the entrances and it took me a while to convince them that I had the right to enter. The US Embassy has also been sending out messages, but my mamá says that she things it will die down in the next few days. It is so hard to know what is true - the people are so aligned with their parties that they refuse to admit their party members are participating in the uproar. Also, it is impossible to get a straight story from the news, because all the channels and newspapers lean with certain parties. Who knows if I will ever get the real story!

Other than these sorts of stresses, I am feeling pretty good. This weekend, I will be going with Chelsea M. to visit Kendall on the island of Ometepe, which Nicaraguans call "the most beautiful place on Earth". I am very excited to visit, and it will definitely be a good break from all the problems in Managua. We will be staying on the isthmus inbetween the two volcanoes at Playa Santo Domingo, chilling on the beach, and working on our projects. Gosh...doing my homework on the beach in one of the most beautiful places in the world...what a life!

That is it for today - hopefully I will be able to write and post some pictures when I get back from Ometepe. For now, as a sort of thank you for reading some of the depressing parts of my post or just for taking the time out to come to my blog site, here is something that always makes me happier...pictures and videos of babies and other small children! (especially for you Lila!)

This is Melaña, a girl I met in the campo of El Salvador!
My 10 month old niece, Ashley Nicolle, at my house on Sunday!
My 4 year old niece, Francesca!
A boy I met at one of the support groups I attended this week. I gave him a Hershey´s Kiss, and as you can tell, there is more on his face and hands than in his mouth!


And finally, this is my 10 month old niece again, but this time she is dancing! Note that she can´t stand on her own, so she is leaning against the chair for support...hehe...


Thanks again for reading, and I look forward to hearing from you soon!

Love,
Nicole

Sunday, November 9, 2008

Friday, November 7, 2008

So much time and so little to do.

Wait a minute. Strike that. Reverse it.

I didn´t think it was possible, but it is finally the weekend and I am still alive! Hopefully I can continue in this fashion until December.

This week has just been way too much. On Wednesday, we took a two hour drive up north to Chinandega to visit their branch of Fundación Xochiquetzal and so that I could meet with someone from the Association of Nicaraguans that live with HIV/AIDS (ASONVIHSIDA). I was really nervous for the meeting, and the recording I have proves it - I laughed nervously before I asked questions, and everything I said was in absolutely incoherent Spanish. Great. Also, considering it was my first real meeting, I had no clue what I should ask, and it didn´t really help when Patricia was walking around us taking pictures of me and interjecting with the questions she thought I should be asking. Only twenty minutes later (I really need to get more comfortable with this interview stuff!) we went back to Xochiquetzal, where I helped Patricia compile her monthly summary of consults in her incredibly inefficient manner (ahhh, the pains of data entry!). Next, we went for a slightly revolting lunch at the Tip Top Express, Nicaragua´s biggest fast food chain. For the rest of the day, I watched an FSLN caravan in the streets while trying to transcribe my interview, and finally at 4:30PM we began the two and a half hour return journey during which we almost got trampled by another political caravan coming down the highway. What a day.

Yesterday was just as stressful - I went to ANICP+VIDA to talk to their president, and he spent three hours explaining the history of HIV and support in Nicaragua, but after about one hour, my brain had already turned into mush...so thank goodness I was recording it. As I was leaving, he invited me to the support group that they were having that afternoon, so I went back to Xochiquetzal where I waited for Patricia for an hour, then went back to ANICP+VIDA for the support group. The group itself was actually pretty awesome - there were about ten people there from all over the spectrum: women, families, drug users, men who have sex with men, homosexuals, and others who all come together twice a month to talk about living with HIV, the one thing they all have in common. I really wish that my brain wasn´t as mushy by that point because I probably would have gotten more out of it, but hopefully I will be able to visit them again for their next meeting on the 20th.

Finally, today I went to ASONVIHSIDA in Managua to talk to the Nicaraguan president of the International Community of Women living with HIV/AIDS (ICW). I was really dreading another interview, but she was actually spectacular, gave me a lot of information (I recorded it, thank goodness) and invited me to the events they will be having for World AIDS Day on December 1st. I am so pumped!

And now? The weekend!! It isn´t going to be an easy one - on top of my research and the four hours of Spanish interviews to transcribe, Sunday is election day. We are currently living through the "Days of Silence" here in Nicaragua, which are the three days without any sort of campaigning prior to the elections. During this time, there is also something called the "Ley Seca" which prohibits alcohol consumption until Monday to prevent people from arriving at the voting centers completely wasted. My mamá will be working at the voting center close to the Máximo, so I will probably be spending my Sunday locked up with a family friend. Daniel Ortega firmly believes that Nicaragua doesn´t need the help of the United States or any other country with their elections, so this is probably the best idea to avoid any sort of craziness that could result from observing at a voting center. Monday is a national holiday as well as my niece´s 4th birthday, so I will be at home free from work all day until...her PIÑATA PARTY!! I know I am 20 years old, but that doesn´t mean I´m not allowed to get excited over kiddie birthday parties.

And, speaking of elections, hoorah for our new president! All of us huddled around in front of the small TV in the study center on Tuesday night, counting down the seconds until the west coast polls closed. Congratulations to Barack Obama and Joe Biden...hopefully the two of you will be able to make wonderful changes in our country and the world in the next four years.

As for Washington state, Christine Gregoire will be continuing as governor, but we are still waiting on the House Representative for my district (C´mon Darcy!!). Also, following the lead of Oregon, euthanasia is now legal in the WaWa. What an intense election!

That´s it for now...I hope everyone has a great weekend, and keep me updated on the news of your lives!

Love,
Nicole

Tuesday, November 4, 2008

What a day to be an estadounidense!

Happy Election Day everyone! I hope you are all enjoying this extraordinarily historical day. Here is a quick update on what I have been doing lately, as well as a little bit about the political atmosphere down here in the belly button of the Americas.

First of all, I would like to thank everyone for their comments and emails regarding my last couple posts - I truly love getting your feedback and hearing from you, so thank you again, and keep ´em comin´!

Since last week, life has been a bit of a rollercoaster, but I try to tell myself that this is a good thing. On Saturday, we had a sort of "vacation" day, and a whole group of us went to the Tren Cultural in Masaya to learn about Nicaragua´s post-war literacy campaign in 1980. It was incredible - teenage kids signed up to be part of a literacy brigade and went out to the campo to teach the population to read. Anywhere between 50 and 70 percent of many of the municipalities in Nicaragua were illiterate at that time, and these kids did amazing things to help their people. It was so crazy and inspiring to watch videos of adolescent kids teaching middle aged and older people how to read and write. Like Doctor Seuss said, "A person´s a person, no matter how small"...that just shows what kids CAN do! After the Tren, we went to Laguna de Apoyo, a lake in the crater of a volcano. It was wonderful - a great touristy break to eat a sandwich and enjoy the warm water. Gotta love it.

Yesterday was our last day of classes. We had a debate about the Culture of Peace and our last ISP prep, in which we were given our stipend, then set free. I seriously almost freaked out. Me? Alone? In Managua? Surviving? I guess we´ll see!

This morning, Chelsea and I made and ate banana chocolate chip pancakes as if it was going to be our last meal. Below are a few pictures of our process, and my mom devouring some of the magic as well (¡Que rico!).
the professional pancake flipper!
sorry it´s sideways (I don´t know why), but don´t they look delicious?
then we enjoyed them...mmm...
and my mamá loved them too!

At 9AM, after stuffing myself, I made my way to Xochiquetzal for my first day of ISP. I was absolutely terrified - and really, I still am. I waited for two hours for my advisor, then read a bunch of stuff, then talked to her about my schedule for the next month, took a break, and finally went to meet briefly with the board members of ANICP+VIDA. It was quite a stressful day, between trying to find my way to the organizations (taxis, buses, etc.) and actually trying to understand their ridiculously fast speech in a Nicaraguan accent...I don´t know how I got back here in one piece; but really, I probably survived it due to the fact that I ate a completely melted yet completely worth it Snickers bar during my lunch break.

Anyhoo, the current plan is to go off at 6:30AM tomorrow to Chinandega to meet with another organization called ASONVIHSIDA, spend time other days with ANICP+VIDA, visit homes and hospitals, attend support groups, and take part in whatever else occurs in the next month in the Nicaraguan HIV world. I am excited but really hoping that I will succeed - my advisor said that I am super important because no one has ever written down or reported on support for people living with HIV in Nicaragua, and my work will really advance their progress in supporting people living with this disease...I really hope I don´t let them down!

And finally, the ultimate stressor...ELECTIONS...and I am not just talking about US elections, I mean Nicaraguan elections, too. Nicaragua has municipal elections this Sunday, and there has been a history of violence in the past. Even my little 11 year old sister went to a rally for the FSLN yesterday, and there are posters all over the place and people protesting everywhere from all over the political spectrum. In addition, a couple people were stabbed in a rotunda a few days ago. For reals...this is what elections can be like in other countries.

Considering, however, that they have their own elections to worry about, the Nicaraguan people are very interested and informed about our elections as well. I woke up this morning at 6:30 to news radio reporting the latest US election headlines, and every channel on the TV was reporting even the most mundane election news. The way that the Nicaraguans talk about the elections, they really know their stuff, and they really care about what happens in our country because it affects them pretty directly. I guess I used to be a cynic about US politics, but now I feel like my vote actually means something because I am just lucky to have some sort of say in the future of the United States government.

I guess we will see what happens, because in my opinion, this election will say a lot about our country and world. A bunch of us will be watching the elections in the office tonight (a lot of people chose to leave tomorrow for their projects just so they could be here for the election), as well as a group of American Jesuit workers, and another study abroad program that is spending time in Managua.

Below is what I saw on the white board when I came into the office this morning. Who knows what tonight is going to be like...


Thanks for reading, and I look forward to hearing from you! Stay safe, warm, and happy, and perhaps you will hear from me when we have a new president!

Love,
Nicole

Thursday, October 30, 2008

HIV, sequins, and guns...how do these all fit together?

They are all mentioned in this post, that´s how.

First of all, I´m going to be whiny. Do you ever have those times when you turn in a paper that you can´t believe you wrote because you feel so terrible about it? Well, that´s how I feel right now. We had to write a 4-6 page comparative essay on Nicaragua and El Salvador, and I had absolutely no idea what to write about - there was so much information about the two countries yet so little detail to use. We also had the option to write in English or Spanish, and I was ridiculous enough to decide to challenge myself to write in español. OY. Take my advice - never write a paper that you wouldn´t feel comfortable writing in English in another language as it will just make you feel more useless!

Now that we are done with that rant, let´s get down to business.

On Tuesday, I finally met with my advisor for my ISP at Xochiquetzal to discuss my project, and I am SO EXCITED. Her name is Patricia González, and she is a psychologist who has been working with the organization for 12 years. She also told me about another organization that she helped develop called the Asociación de Nicaragüenses de Personas Positivas Luchando por la Vida (ANICP+VIDA) that focuses all their work on support for people living with HIV. She said that I will be spending most of my time shadowing her while she visits and helps individuals, couples, and families affected by HIV. In addition, I will probably be attending the Thursday afternoon support groups at ANICP+VIDA, visiting hospitals to see the government programs provided, developing support protocol for other psychologists, and maybe even help build ANICP+VIDA. It is kind of crazy because all Patricia knows about me is that I am a psychology student from a university in the United States and she is already giving me so much responsibility. It is such a new feeling - in the United States, I feel like I am valued for what I can´t do because I don´t yet have my B.A. or a masters or whatever other experience an organization may require, but here I am cherished for my interest and what I can and will do. This coming month is going to be intense, but I am too excited for words.


A shout out to my dear Pirate Club that I miss with the fire of ten kagillion suns:

On Monday morning, my mom and I went to the Mercado Oriental to buy fabric to make traditional folkloric dance costumes so that we can perform together in the closing ceremony of our program. I was extremely skeptical about this little adventure especially because my sewing skills are not yet up to par for this kind of project. I can say this considering that my sewing resume consists solely of a t-shirt and shorts I made in 3rd grade, a flower bouquet for the fall play (note: there was no real sewing involved in this project), a hat for the winter play, and two quilts that I made during short term...but I went to the market anyways, thinking that I might as well try, laugh at myself when I completely failed, then come crawling back to the Bates costume shop in January to beg Kathy to reteach me everything I learned last year.

When we arrived at the market I couldn´t believe my eyes...my darling pirates, you would have fainted. There were rows and rows of fabric stores down the street of the outdoor market with rows and rows and rooms and rooms of fabrics and adornments and everything shiny and colorful that you could possibly want to make absolutely anything. I left the mall of fabrics with 18 dollars worth of supplies to create my own traditional costume...but that was the easy part. Then I actually had to do it.

That night, my mom and I made the blouse for the costume, the Nicaraguan way. I am a disgrace to the costume shop for what I did, but I had to do it because it was the only way. We took t-shirts and placed them on our satin without pins, then traced them with blackboard chalk. After, we cut the "pattern" using dull scissors that couldn´t even cut paper, then did the other side in a similar fashion. Next, we brought out the sewing machine and I surprised myself by successfully threading the bobbin on a machine I had no clue how to use. Finally, I did the sketchiest part - I attempted to sew my fraying, asymmetrical satin on the machine I didn´t understand. Fearfully, I took the shirt off the machine, cut all the loose thread (just for you Kathy!), and put it on, hoping that I didn´t look like a complete idiot. Much to my surprise, my mom screamed, "¡Que linda!" (How beautiful!) because it actually fit. Wow. Luckiest day of my life.

Since then, I have been sewing sequins and adornments on the shirt which is supposed to sparkle to the point of blindness, and I am pleased to say that under the circumstances, I successfully sewed a shirt. Now on to the skirt and hat!


Last bit of news for this update:

Yesterday afternoon, as a part of the Culture of Peace module of our history class, we visited the Parque de la Paz that Violeta Barrios de Chamorro built at the end of the war in Nicaragua. This is what we saw there. Can you tell what the things are that are sticking out of this wall?


Answer: GUNS. Doña Violeta had all the weapons of the war dumped into a pit covered in cement to bury them, signifying the end of the armed war. It was an incredible sight. Below is a tank that was also covered with cement at the park.


Isn´t that nuts?

Anyways, I have about four minutes left at the internet café, so I am going to sign off before I get into trouble. I hope everyone is having a wonderful day, and I am missing you all SO much!

Love,
Nicole

Sunday, October 26, 2008

Good luck on this one!

Hello everyone! Thanks so much for waiting on me...I have been receiving a lot of notes wondering where my blog posts have been lately, so please understand that it has been a very busy two weeks. The few days before we left for El Salvador we had all of our final presentations and proposals due, so I had trouble finding time to write. THUS, thank you in advance for reading everything in this post, I´ll try to make it worth it, and I promise they will be more regular from now on!

First, a few notes about things pre-El Salvador...

I gave my final presentation for Spanish class on an incredible book written by Nicaraguan author Emilio Quintana entitled, Bananos about the lives of banana workers and the corruption and poverty they endure in southern Nicaragua and Northern Costa Rica. It absolutely blew me out of the water and I would recommend it to any of my Spanish speaking friends (it´s only 66 pages!), so if any of you are interested let me know and I would be happy to bring back a copy for you.

That also means...60 hours of intensive Spanish instruction: CHECK!
Here is a picture of my Spanish class (Sam, Chelsea, me, Molly, and Elizabeth) with our two professors, Ramón and Araceli at the end of class celebration. They are too wonderful for words.

ALSO...drumroll please...I turned in my ISP proposal! My official topic is: An investigation of psychosocial support networks for people living with HIV in Nicaragua. Starting November 4th, I will be in Managua with the same host family (HOORAH!) while working with a psychologist at an organization called Fundación Xochiquetzal, learning about the support services offered and the challenges that the positive population face in Managua. I may also go up north to Chinandega for a week to do a case study of the resources in another region. It is so exciting to finally have it almost figured out, although now I have a few days to get everything sorted out with the Bates IRB...eek!

AND, my last exciting piece of pre-El Salvador news...I VOTED FOR THE FIRST TIME IN A PRESIDENTIAL ELECTION!

Washington was being slow about sending out the absentee ballots, so I voted with Kendall, my dear friend from Sammamish, using the super sketchy federal write-in absentee ballot for citizens residing outside of the United States. We were probably a little too excited for it, so we took pictures of the entire process:


I am really looking forward to seeing these elections through a Nicaraguan lens because as far as I have seen, Central Americans are more informed about the elections in the United States than many United States citizens. Only 9 more days!

And finally, EL SALVADOR!

El Salvador was probably the most enjoyable part of my semester so far, and that is seriously saying something. The best way to describe this excursion is completely and utterly overwhelming - between the amount of activities we had and the weight of all of them, I am lucky I am still breathing. We visited a lot of groups and met a lot of fabulous people which would be way too much to write about here, but these are a few of the big events and exciting moments from the trip.

-We spent two days in the campo again - and it wasn´t that bad this time! We lived in Santa Marta, a community in the Cabañas region near the Honduran border. During the war, the people of Santa Marta were caught in between the guerrillas and the military, so they fled to Honduras to escape the inhumane treatment they were suffering. During the day, we worked at Radio Victoria, the community radio run by the youth of Santa Marta and Victoria up the mountain that reaches their region and even parts of Honduras. It was absolutely amazing - the first day I worked with production to make an informational advertisement to encourage people to vote, and the second day I worked in the cabin where I spoke live on the radio and got to play music. The song I chose to play was actually by the Bates Deansmen in an attempt to introduce Central America to a capella...so Tom and friends, you are now international superstars!

-We all spent a day with students from Santa Marta who are studying on scholarship at the universities in San Salvador. Chelsea, Phil and I followed Vilma, a journalism major at the UCA, who actually worked at Radio Victoria before coming to the city. We went to her photojournalism class and then to her job at the radio station, from which we went absolutely everywhere. Vilma had to get interviews for her two stories that day, so we took the bus to the Sheraton for a meeting of the embassy of Holland regarding trade with El Salvador, and then to a conference at the National University. We returned to the station at 5PM, she wrote her story, and it went on the air at 6PM. It was amazing but so stressful - it made me feel like I was back at college....goodness, I can´t believe I forgot what stress feels like!

-We visited the National Assembly to talk to government representatives from the two major political parties about their platforms and their thoughts about their huge elections this January and March. El Salvador has municipal and representative elections every three years and presidential elections every five years, and 2009 is the 15th year (least common denominator!) in which all will occur simultaneously. It was an awesome opportunity, and after all the history we had learned and the time we had spent talking to Salvadorans throughout the week, it was super interesting to see how these parties function.

-On Wednesday, we watched one of the most incredible and terrifying movies that I have ever seen called, Voces Inocentes about the civil war in El Salvador during the 1980´s. We had spent all week learning about the war, seeing the horrific pictures, and hearing people´s unbelievable testimonies, but this really hit me hard. After the movie, I went up to my room and hyperventilated because I felt so powerless in the face of the injustice and abuses that occurred and still occur around the world to this day.
In fear of the threat of communism, the United States gave what equates to 1.5 million dollars per day for 12 years to the oppressive military dictatorship that committed unforgivable acts against the people of El Salvador which are some of the most disgusting human rights abuses I have ever seen. It is so difficult to even attempt to fathom the psychological training and the barriers one must create in their mind to do these sorts of things. And how can these things still be happening in our world?
I am still recovering from these images and now more than ever I have started to question myself about who I am and what I believe. I have been told this is a good thing, so hopefully I will come out of this stronger and with a clearer idea of what life means.


And now for a little more upbeat news...

-We met with an SIT Nicaragua alum who is actually JEWISH, from BELLEVUE, graduated from NEWPORT in 2003...and knows my sister and Nathan! Just one of those happy moments that lets you know that the world really is that small.

-I had the most marvelously and fabulously economical ice cream while in El Salvador...gosh I love Central America!

-I rode the most terrifying ferris wheel of my life. It was so bad that Aynn is adding "Ferris wheels in Santa Marta" to the list of banned activities for future semesters. You can see a video of me and Chelsea on the wheel below...though it doesn´t do it justice.



Overall, El Salvador was a fantastic experience, and has actually made me think about coming back down here to study the psychological effects of the war in Nicaragua and El Salvador for my thesis. Who knows!

Here are a few more photos from the trip...


This is from the rose garden memorial for the six Jesuit priests who were assassinated in 1989 by the government.Outside the National Cathedral, I saw this little girl feeding the pigeons.We walked down the mountain through the corn fields from Victoria to Santa Marta on our first day in the campo, and this was the view we had the entire way. In the distance you can see Honduras! The war memorial in San Salvador for the Salvadoran civil war is just like the Vietnam memorial in Washington DC. Oscar Arnulfo Romero was the archbishop who was assassinated in 1980 by the government. He is the most famous man in Salvadoran history, described as a prophet by everyone in the country.

And since then? We returned Friday night around 9PM to a wonderful potluck dinner organized by our host moms. It was so cute!


This next part is dedicated to Margaret, Hilary, and Liz:
Yesterday, I made my family´s first ever chocolate chip cookies that weren´t Chips Ahoy ("They aren´t hard!" (That´s what she said!)), and my sister and I went around Máximo banging pans and with pots on our heads to deliver cookies to all our aunts. IT. WAS. AWESOME.


So that is the way too long update on the last two weeks of my life. Basically, I am having such a great time and it is crazy to think that we are now more than half way done with the program!

The slideshow in the upper right hand corner is now completely updated, so you can click on it and have fun going through the absurdly extensive collection.

Thank you all for reading, I hope you enjoyed it, and I look forward to hearing from you soon!

Love,
Nicole

Sunday, October 12, 2008

Singing in the Rain, part two

So it hasn´t been that long since my last update, but yesterday was just such a fabulous and hilarious day that I had to tell you all about it!

The title of this entry refers specifically to the second part of yesterday´s story, which could be an extension of the blog I had to write at the Religious Action Center two summers ago. You can read that story here, if you wish.

But first, the story of the beginning of my day.

Yesterday morning, my aunt came to my door to ask if I wanted to go to the cemetery with my family. Why not? It seemed like it would be a cool experience to spend time with my family and see another important site of Managua. My brother, sister, cousin and I got into the open back of my uncle´s pickup truck and my mom, two of my aunts, my uncle, three of my cousins, my two siblings and I drove all the way across Managua to visit the grave of my grandparents.

The cemetery was enormous, which I learned is because there are only two public cemeteries in Managua. All the graves were colorful and unique, and some of the wealthier families had even constructed small churches for their families within the cemetery. We went to my grandparents´shared tomb, placed flowers on the grave, then pulled out chairs and a bottle of Coca Cola from the truck. We drank, joked, and listened to music together between the graves, almost as if we had come to the cemetery to include my grandparents in our family reunion. They took pictures with the tomb and danced to Reggaeton, and then my mom and I decided to take a walk around to see more of the cemetery. We passed some incredible tombs and mini churches, and then came across a small, fenced in area between the rows of graves. I was extremely curious to find out what it was and much to my surprise, here surrounded by the thousands of Catholic tombs was a Jewish cemetery. The gate was locked but there were probably no more than 40 graves in the two rows, so we walked around the outside to read the stones. As with other Jewish cemeteries I have visited, all the stones were black granite and virtually identical to represent equality in death. Even more surprising than actually finding a Jewish cemetery in a Catholic country, most all of the people buried here were born in the 20´s or 30´s in Poland, Hungary, Russia, and other European countries, which led me to assume that they were WWII refugees who had chosen Nicaragua as their safe haven. It was so powerful, and made me appreciate Nicaragua that much more.

Three hours later, we returned to Máximo after hitting up the gas station and "PriceMart", an exact replica of Costco in Managua. I got out of the truck, sunburned from head to toe and collapsed on my bed to take a nap. I woke up and it was storming outside, but I had promised Kendall that I would meet her at the office to read our book, so I put on my rainjacket, stuffed my dictionary and book in the front, and put on my shower shoes to run down the street to the pulpería to add minutes to my phone and then to the study center to meet my friend. I was feeling super smart for deciding to wear my plastic flip flops because the street was flowing like a river, but as I started to cross the road, one of them flew off my foot and started swimming away with the strong current. As I tried to chase after it, the other came off, following the lead of the first. Trying to keep my pregnant belly of books safe from the torrential downpour under my jacket, I ran barefoot down the street after my shoes, until the road started to slope downward towards the center of Managua and my shoes escaped from sight. Dejected, embarrassed, shoeless and soaked, I walked into the pulpería, determined to continue with my original quest to buy cell phone minutes. The lady looked at the soaked rat that just walked into her store, and asked me where my shoes were. Using the fabulous "no fault" construction of the Spanish language, I replied:

"Se me perdieron mis zapatos en el río de la calle..."
(My shoes were lost in the river of the street...)

She started laughing hysterically. I mean really, who wouldn´t? I was laughing at me too. She gave me my minutes and I started walking barefoot down to the study center. From a few houses away, I could still hear her laughing and telling my story to her family. While it was absurdly embarrassing, I can at least look back on this experience and know that I brought joy to another Nicaraguan´s life by being a ridiculous gringo, which is a good thing, right?

With that, I am off to finish reading and do some other homework with Kendall, but I hope you all have a marvelous Sunday!

Love,
Nicole

Friday, October 10, 2008

"Extreme citizenship is marked by extreme sacrifice."

The above is a quote from this week´s visiting professor in our Nicaraguan history class, María Teresa Blandón. At first, this quote may seem like it came straight out of a book on terrorism, but here in Nicaragua and other Latin American countries that have suffered at the hands of dictators, this is something admirable.

The Somoza dictatorship of the 20th century in Nicaragua has been described as possibly the worst in Latin American history, and sadly much of this is the fault of the United States. As María Teresa described it, "Central America was an incredibly important laboratory for the United States," and Nicaragua is no exception. The United States gave the first Somoza his power by giving him control of la Guardia Nacional, or National Guard, which they imposed on the country. For the next 45 years, the Somoza family and la Guardia Nacional committed outrageous human rights abuses and stole millions of dollars from the people. It is said that in the 1970´s, Nicaragua was even worse off than El Salvador in the 1980´s. In a country of 3.5 million people, more than 50,000 people died, to the point where tires were burnt in the streets to mask the smell of the rotting corpses. I can´t even begin to imagine the trauma that something as terrible as this could inspire. As a result, there is still animosity towards the US and fear that our military will return. For example, we are urged not to attend political rallies because people may think we were sent by the CIA. For similar reasons, we were told not to bring any camoflauge or military khaki colored clothing for the semester.

Still today as we walk down the streets we see people without limbs as a result of Nicaragua´s past. Yesterday, we talked to one of our Spanish professors, Ramón, about his time as a Sandinista revolutionary. He told us that he was put in jail five times by la Guardia Nacional and was tortured and beaten so much that he spent six months recovering in the hospital after his last jail term; however, opening up like this is rare - most people here choose to disguise their pains though their scars may be plainly visible.

As a psych major, this is something in which I am incredibly interested. In the United States, one finds outstanding numbers of people who participated in war with PTSD, and an even greater portion of the population use psychosomatic drugs for a range of emotional issues. Here, there is very little talk about psychological health. Though the field of psychology may be growing, the demand for therapy and psychiatric assistance seems unusually low. Aynn and I discussed this issue a few days ago when I met with her to discuss my Independent Study Project (ISP). In many countries, people "rip off the bandaid" and handle their grief by dealing with it directly, but in Nicaragua, they keep their wounds covered, believing if they pack it away and leave it behind, they can relieve themselves of their emotional pains. Some argue that Nicaragua has taken such an emotional toll over the years that it is time we rip off the bandaid, that Nicaraguans need to confront these issues to relieve themselves of the pressures of the pains of their history. But what effects would this have on the second poorest country in the Western Hemisphere? If these issues were recognized and care was necessary, it could have grave economic effects from which Nicaragua would probably never recover.

It is for reasons like these that I want to focus on issues of psychological health for my ISP next month. I will spend this weekend developing my proposal and hopefully will be able to learn more about these issues by focusing on a specific theme.

Otherwise, I am doing well down here - Yom Kippur finished last night and my mom made me a fabulous chicken salad and bought some delicious fruit bread for me to break my fast. It may not be bagels, lox, quiche, or kugel, but it was still darn tasty! This weekend I will be working like crazy on two papers, a book presentation, and the IRB proposal for my ISP, taking a few breaks to go with my mom to buy fabric to make a traditional Nicaraguan dress and learn some typical dance.

Thanks again for reading my thoughts, and hopefully my next entry will be a little more uplifiting. To all, have a wonderful day and know that I am smiling thinking of all of you!

Love,
Nicole

Tuesday, October 7, 2008

And we´re back online!!

A day later than expected, but back safely from the coast, which is all that matters, right?

There is so much to write about – I will try to keep it somewhat short while giving everyone all the fabulous details of my last week. Deal? Deal.

Last weekend before the coast, eight of us met at 5:45AM to catch the 6:20AM bus to Granada, one of the colonial cities of Nicaragua. For most of its history, Granada has been known as the conservative capital of the country, and is now one of the most popular tourist destinations in Nicaragua. This was obvious after living in Managua for five and a half weeks because everything was so much more expensive, though by American standards, it was ridiculously cheap.

We arrived at about 7:30AM got breakfast (banana chocolate chip pancakes!) and saw some of the beautiful churches and other sights of Granada. Afterwards, we checked into our hostel and at 1:30 we were picked up to drive for 45 minutes up the rocky roads into the cloud forest for a canopy tour, which was one of the most exciting things I have ever done. It consisted of 12 zip lines and eight platforms throughout the jungle, and at the end, we had to repel down from a platform to the ground. It was super extreme!

That night, we went out for dinner, then joined the rest of Granada in the center square to watch a big boxing match on a giant screen featuring Mayorga, the infamous Nicaraguan boxer. Mayorga ended up getting knocked out in the 12th round, all of Nicaragua celebrated, and we went back to the hostel to sleep. The next morning we went to breakfast (strawberry chocolate chip pancakes!) and caught the bus back to Managua.

Below is one of my favorite things that we found at the bar in our hostel…who thinks of these ridiculous things?

Costs:

One hour bus ride to Granada: $1
Banana chocolate chip pancakes: $4.25
Hostel with free internet, tea, and coffee: $8
Canopy tour for three hours near Volcán Mombacho: $28
Too much food for dinner: $4
Strawberry chocolate chip pancakes: $3.75
Bus back to Managua: $1

Total spent for a weekend trip to Granada (besides priceless): $50

…which is still less than the price of a one way trip for the 40 minute ride from Portland to Lewiston with the Mermaid Transportation. Wonderful.

On Tuesday, we left for our week in the autonomous coastal region of Nicaragua. On the coast, we had two groups – one in Pearl Lagoon and one in Orinoco. Traveling there was absolutely horrendous – the coast is so isolated! We met at the study center at 5:30AM and left on the bus at 6AM, then drove to Juigalpa where we stopped at 9AM for a bathroom/snack break. We then got back on the bus to Rama, where we arrived at 1PM, then piled on two small motorboats for the two hour journey down the Río Escondido to Bluefields in the Southern Atlantic Autonomous Region (RAAS) of the coast. We spent one night there, then got back on the boats for another hour ride to Pearl Lagoon, and for those in Orinoco, another hour further north from Pearl Lagoon.

Pearl Lagoon was pretty fabulous – we stayed in a guest house and had two meetings every day with community leaders and local groups. My favorite meeting was with Acción Médica Cristiana (AMC) which is an NGO that is working on HIV prevention in Pearl Lagoon. After that meeting, four of us decided to visit the Ministry of Health (MINSA) to learn about the services they provide and had a tour of the entire facility. What surprised me most about all of these medical services is that there were no psychologists in Pearl Lagoon – if someone needed counseling after a positive HIV test, they would have to travel to Bluefields which is quite expensive for the locals. A few of us also decided to visit the Moravian church during their revival campaign, which was definitely a new experience for me.

The coast itself is an absolutely crazy mixture of cultures with a unique and interesting history. Most everyone spoke Creole/English, and we ate fresh seafood and coconut bread every day. AND, for all of you baseball fans out there, here is a link to another interesting fact about Pearl Lagoon… (Thanks to Lila!)

http://sports.espn.go.com/mlb/news/story?id=2762971

On Saturday, we returned to Bluefields for the night and had a dance presentation from a native group on the coast called the Garifuna. These people were originally slaves from Ghana whose ship landed on St. Vincent in the Antilles, and mixed with the locals from the island to create this new ethnic group. As a result of colonization, they ended up coming to Mesoamerica and today, this ethnic group only exists in three places in the world, one of which is the Caribbean coast of Nicaragua.

Their dancing was absolutely incredible – I couldn’t believe the ways in which they could move. I even got to hear a “shofar” when they played the conch! A video example is taking way too long to upload, so you will all have to settle with the fact that it was mindblowing, and I hope to upload one for all of you soon!!

After, they invited all of us to join them in a circle to dance. Each of us had to step into the circle individually and attempt the Garifuna dance which was both exciting and hilarious at the same time. Once we each had our turn, they invited us to perform a traditional two person dance and at the end, I was the last person in the circle dancing with one of the Garifuna men. It was amazing – though I am a dancer, it is always uncomfortable trying to do a dance you don’t know in front of an entire restaurant; however, it was one of the most exhilarating experiences of my life thus far.

The next day at 8AM, we left on boats back to Rama, then back on the bus towards Managua. We stopped again in Juigalpa and at about 5:30PM we were stuck in traffic about an hour and a half from Managua. We learned that they were doing construction on the bridge and due to the excessive rain, the detour was underwater. We were banking on getting back to the Gua at 1 or 2 in the morning at this rate if at all, so we turned around and went to Boaco for the night and stayed in the only option for 20 people: a dirty little hotel without much running water. We left the next morning at 8AM, and finally got back to Máximo at 9:30AM. What a trip!

Now we are back in the Gua for a week and a half before we head off to El Salvador to compare the two countries. As Aynn told us, “Get ready to turn yourself inside out one more time!”

Pictures might take a while to get up and for this I am sorry, but thank you to all for reading this extremely long update – I hope you all enjoyed your week and look forward to hearing from you!

Lastly, to all my Jewish friends, Shanah Tovah and may you all have an easy fast this Thursday!

Love,
Nicole